When you think of world-class ice cream, Italy probably comes to mind first.
But in Buenos Aires, helado isn’t just frozen dessert – it’s a cultural institution
https://havekids-stilltravel.com/argentinas-ice-cream-history/#how-2-orderWhen Calvin and I told the girls that our next destination would be Argentina, E’s first question to us was, “Will there be anything for me there?” And my immediate thought was to tell her all about Argentina’s ice cream, which lit her eyes up with delight.
Once we arrived, she begged for an ice cream tour, so I built an assignment for her to set up her own tour and ratings. She found a number of gems, and her adventure led us down an unexpected path of discovery about Argentine culture, history, and culinary evolution. While she meticulously rated flavors and textures across Buenos Aires’ countless heladerías, I found myself wondering how such a remarkable ice cream culture came to be. And as a result, her quest for the perfect helado became my gateway to understanding a story that, a century in, seems to only just be beginning.
In the course of our many tastings, we also became pros at the ritual of ordering ice cream in Argentina.
What I discovered was that few elements of Argentina’s culinary landscape tell the story of immigration, adaptation, and cultural evolution as clearly as its heladerías. These establishments represent not just frozen treats, but a slow-churned transformation of Italian artisanal traditions into a uniquely Argentine cultural cornerstone.
Italian Origins and Argentine Evolution
The late 19th and 20th centuries saw waves of immigration that fundamentally shaped Argentine culture. A large percentage of those immigrants were from Italy. They introduced many old world contributions, including their gelato-making traditions and techniques and began establishing small family-run heladerías across the country. Over time, these heladerías shifted from transplanting their craft to refining and adapting Old World techniques to highlight New World tastes and ingredients.
While Italian gelato typically contains 3-8% butterfat, Argentine helado evolved to use a higher percentage. The result? An extraordinarily dense, velvety texture and a deeply rich flavor. This adaptation, combined with an emphasis on quality ingredients and artisanal production methods, has led many to argue that Argentina’s ice cream surpasses its Italian ancestor in quality and creativity.
From Corner Shops to Cultural Landmarks
The story of Argentina’s heladerías unfolds across generations. Among the pioneering establishments was El Vesuvio, founded in 1902. One of Buenos Aires’ first heladerías to introduce authentic Italian-style ice cream, it stood as a beacon of tradition for over a century until its closure just before the Pandemic. Its legacy lives on in the techniques it helped establish as standard practice throughout the city.
The post-war period saw another wave of innovation with establishments like Cadore, which opened its doors in 1957. Recognized by National Geographic as one of the top ten ice cream parlors in the world, Cadore exemplifies the refined techniques of mid-century artisanal ice cream making, balancing traditional methods with systematic quality control.
Another notable establishment is Via Maggiore, opened in 1984 by an Italian immigrant and carpenter who designed and crafted his own storefront and developed the shop’s distinctive range of flavors. The 21st century has brought a new generation of helado artisans who honor these traditions while pushing creative boundaries. Shops like Rapanui have revolutionized the concept of ice cream bars through their integration of chocolate-making techniques, while newcomers like Luccianos experiment with molecular gastronomy while maintaining the dense, creamy texture Buenos Aires is famous for.
The Business of Helado
Originally, heladerías were seasonal businesses, opening only during Buenos Aires’s summers and closing their doors during the cooler months. But as refrigeration technology improved and demand grew year-round, these shops evolved into permanent fixtures in nearly every neighborhood. Today, Buenos Aires boasts one of the highest concentrations of ice cream shops per capita in the world, with some neighborhoods having a heladería on almost every block.
This transformation from seasonal treat to year-round cultural institution is reflected in how porteños (Buenos Aires residents) incorporate helado into their daily lives. Families often purchase kilos of ice cream to enjoy together at home or to bring as their offering to parties. Late night gatherings frequently end with a stop at a local heladeria, and it’s not uncommon to see people enjoying a cone at midnight, or even as late as 2 a.m.
But perhaps the most distinctly Argentine ice cream tradition, though H would strongly advocate for global adoption of this Argentine brilliance, is the delivery service. Yes, you read that right. Long before food delivery apps became ubiquitous, Buenos Aires residents could call their local heladería and have tubs of ice cream delivered to their doorstep, often by motorcycle couriers zipping through the city’s streets with specially insulated boxes. It’s still common today for an ice cream delivery order to be placed as a family meal is wrapping up, arriving at the doorstep within minutes of the dinner being cleared. E insists this tradition alone makes Argentina’s ice cream culture superior to any other she’s experienced – the combination of exceptional quality and unparalleled convenience proved irresistible to our young connoisseur.
Flavor Evolution
While traditional Italian flavors remain central to the heladerías’ offerings, their preparation reflects a distinctly Argentine approach. Where Italian gelaterias often rely on sweet syrups and artificial flavorings for classics like pistachio and almond, Argentine heladerías typically favor natural ingredients that showcase the pure taste of the nuts themselves – a difference that even our young taster could immediately detect.
This commitment to authentic flavors extends to uniquely Argentine innovations. Dulce de leche, for instance, appears in countless variations, from simple to granizado (with grated chocolate flakes) to more elaborate combinations with brownie or chocolate. Local favorites like mate (the beloved Argentine tea) have been transformed into ice cream flavors, while Italian-inspired creations like sambayón (made with egg custard and marsala wine) pay homage to the craft’s European roots.
Modern artisans continue to push boundaries while respecting these traditions. New establishments incorporate native Argentine ingredients that the original Italian immigrants never considered, such as Patagonian berries and regional herbs. The rise of organic ingredients, small-batch production, and dairy-free alternatives demonstrates how the industry adapts to contemporary preferences while maintaining its commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
How to Order like a Local
There is a multi-step procedure for ordering helado in Argentina, which has remained largely unchanged for generations – something we learned the hard way. Eyes wide at all the flavors, and me busy translating what each of them were, we walked up to the ice cream counter like we would in the States. H asked to sample the frambuesa (raspberry), only to receive a rapid-fire question too soft for me to hear over the din of other customers. Finally, a kind scooper gestured to the cashier, who was around the corner and far enough back that we hadn’t seen the stand when we’d entered. Such was our introduction to the ordering process. Hopefully, this guide will spare you our confusion.
ORDER & PAY:
Begin at the cashier (“caja“), where you’ll select your size
